The 2009 Pinot Noir Ashley's is a big super-ripe wine endowed with dark fruit, cola, sweet spices, vanilla and sweet French oak, all of which come together nicely. Ashely’s is made in a decidedly forward, flashy style and the oak (50% new barrels) is also a bit much for the wine’s structure. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California. Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com

Good acidity, crunchy, dry tannins and subtle earth flavors mark this fine Pinot Noir. The fruit offers raspberries, cherries and cola, with an elaborate coating of sweet oak. Seems at its best over the next few years.——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 89