The 2005 Pinot Noir Ashley’s Vineyard’s (named after his daughter) dark ruby/plum-tinged wine boasts an elegant perfume of sweet black cherries interwoven with notions of loamy soil, roasted herbs, forest floor, and assorted black fruits. With excellent ripeness, crisp underlying acidity, and a beefy meatiness, this elegant Pinot is not dissimilar from a Gevrey-Chambertin premier cru. Enjoy it over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Ashley’s, sold recently by the Parkers and now renamed Gaia, is a fabulous vineyard on the coolest western edge of the appellation. In this long hangtime vintage, the grapes achieved spectacularly ripe, fruity flavors, of cherries, raspberry puree and sweet, oak-infused cola. But this is no mere fruit bomb. The acid-tannin balance is amazing, and the wine has a deeply impressive, long-lasting appeal. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 94