Very prominent, oak-related notes of clove, nutmeg, wild spice, molasses and toast are lavished over the natural fruit of this ambitious blend of five indigenous Italian varieties (Montepulciano, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Malvasia Nera and Negroamaro). It’s a plump and succulent wine with dense concentration and loads of spice on the finish. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 89