Perhaps the best wine of this trio (although that’s not saying a whole lot) is the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hauts des Coteaux, a blend of 90% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre, aged both in barrel and cement. This wine has a slightly deeper color, more forest floor, some noticeable oak, but not enough concentration to stand up to the wine’s structure and density. It should prove to be the longest lived, but it seems unlikely that it will ultimately offer any more charm or personality. (Not yet released) These are all straightforward efforts from this cooperative in Courthezon, the medieval village just to the northeast of Chateauneuf du Pape. Importer: USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133