A classic Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre assemblage updated by aging in about 20% new barriques, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape les Hauts des Coteaux is on the light, herbal side, boasting scents of thyme, sage and bay leaf, modest cherry fruit and hints of dark chocolate. A bit of a disappointment compared with how it showed prior to bottling, but at least it has largely absorbed the oak treatment and remains silky and reasonably elegant.