The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is surprisingly fresh and vibrant as it opens to reveal sweet layers of ripe fruit intermingled with toasted oak, leather and spices. It possesses lovely inner perfume and finessed tannins in a very sleek, modern expression of Brunello. This is yet another example of a wine that has very little 2003 character, but that is delicious on an absolute level. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini is making beautiful wines at Talenti. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Fine wood shavings and rich tones of vanilla and Indian spice distinguish this modern Brunello. You’ll also recognize aromas of black cherry, leather, espresso and licorice that add pretty highlights to the wine’s dense, velvety texture.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 88