Talenti’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the more intensely fragrant wines in this vintage. Sweet layers of perfumed fruit flow effortlessly onto the palate, framed by silky tannins that give the wine its sense of balance and poise. This is a deceptively medium-bodied wine, yet it packs plenty of punch, not to mention tons of complexity. This pleasing, beautifully balanced Brunello is drinking well today and should continue to offer plenty of pleasure over the next decade and a half. Talenti and consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini gave the 2004 Brunello two and a half years in 500-liter French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Talenti is one of the historic names in Montalcino. In recent years the wines have struck a gorgeous balance in a style that combines elements of modern and traditional styles. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Lavender and smoke. Bold, briary fruit, grainy dry tannins with bacon and olives. Sweet fruit intensity, full-on style. Mineral.

Riccardo Talenti indeed demonstrates a great talent in creating this deeply territory-driven wine. You can almost taste the fine earth that nurtures each vine to maturity. Aromas include stone and ash, backed by luscious black fruit. The wine boasts excellent persistence and dimension and will appeal to those who appreciate minerality.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 92