The elegant, full-bodied, dry 2002 Cotes de Tablas white (36% Viognier, 26% Grenache Blanc, 30% Marsanne, and 8% Roussanne) possesses loads of pineapple, honeysuckle, and candied lemons and limes. It cuts a full swath across the palate but has good vibrant acidity at the back end. Flexible with food, it should drink well for several years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

Polished, complex, delicious and compelling, and at the top of the heap of California white Rhones. The white peach and tropical fruit flavors are joined with slaty minerals and dried herbs, ending with a honeyed flourish. A blend of Viognier, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 91