Take, for example, the 2008 Cotes de Tablas blanc, a sensational blend of 42% Viognier, 26% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne, and the rest Grenache blanc. This seems to be a winner every year. From the hilly limestone soils of their vineyard, this blend seems to take on far more minerality and delineation than in many places in California. The good news is that there are 3,000 cases of this wine, which displays nice hints of quince, crushed rock, citrus, honeysuckle, white currant, and white peach. Beautiful fruit, good delineation, medium body, and lots of freshness make for a zesty, personality-filled dry white to drink over the next several years. A few wineries make 100% Grenache blanc, but Tablas Creek may produce the best. Robert Haas, the iconic French wine importer, who was one of the first to bring estate-bottled French wines into the United States, continues to go from strength to strength at Tablas Creek. His partner remains the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape. They have had three tiny vintages in a row, all producing very small yields, but the quality of their 2007s is the best in the history of the winery, and 2008 is certainly a strong vintage as well. These are wonderful, food-friendly wines with considerable complexity. While they do some varietal naming, the strength of Tablas Creek is their extraordinary Rhone Ranger blends, whether white or red. The 2009 vintage turned out to be an even smaller crop than 2008 and 2007 as a result of spring frost.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314