The 2003 Cote de Tablas blanc, a blend of 45% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 16% Grenache Blanc, and 7% Roussanne, is a full-bodied, light golden-colored, tank-fermented and aged effort offering notions of citrus blossoms, pineapples, and other exotic fruits, loads of personality, and a dry, crisp, food-friendly personality. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

A little brother of the Esprit Blanc, and while it’s nowhere as rich, it’s a noble wine of considerable nuance. Apricot, peach, fig, vanilla and toast flavors mingle in a creamy texture that finishes long and spicy.——S.H.(2/1/2005)—— 91