The fruit-driven, elegant 2004 Cote de Tablas blanc, a blend of 55% Viognier, 29% Marsanne, and the rest Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, is a crisp, elegant white offering notions of lemon zest, grapefruit, oranges, and other tropical fruits. With good underlying acidity as well as surprising body and intensity, it will drink well for several more years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314