The introductory white is the Cote de Tablas Blanc. The 2005, a blend of 42% Viognier, 33% Roussanne, 19% Marsanne, and the rest white Grenache, offers up aromas of honeyed grapefruit, orange rind, tropical fruits, and lemon zest along with a hint of crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied with surprising dryness as well as intensity, it should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

This Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc blend is dry and crisp in acidity, with flavors of baked papayas, guavas and nectarines, offset by high acidity. It doesn’t possess the complexity of Esprit, but it’s a nice, complex wine.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 87