One of California's most innovative, delicious, Rhone Valley-inspired dry whites is the Cotes de Tablas blanc. The 2007 (a small crop blend of 38% Viognier, 25% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, and 17% Grenache) is a brilliant effort revealing scents of quince, honeyed apricots, white currants, and crushed rocks. A medium-bodied wine with beautiful density, good acidity, a hint of orange marmalade, and long, fresh, crisp flavors, it should drink nicely for several years. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

This Rhone-style blend of Viognier, Marsanne and other varieties is very rich and direct. It offers jammy flavors of apricots, pineapples, peaches and vanilla, with a bracing minerality. Drink now.——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 87