Possessing a darker slant to its fruit than the Vieilles Vignes, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape gives up beautiful blackberry, ground pepper, cured meats and underbrush to go with a medium to full-bodied, supple, mouth-filling texture. It too is fully mature, yet it still has plenty of mid-palate flesh, sweet tannin and a pure, balanced profile that will keep it evolving gracefully.

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape's peppery, plum, cherry liqueur, and cassis-scented nose is followed by opulent, long, open-knit flavors crammed with glycerin and alcohol. The high levels of richness and glycerin obscure much of the wine's structure and tannin. This sexy, voluptuously-textured, creamy 1998 should drink gorgeously for 10-15+ years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949