The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape (14.8% natural alcohol) is a sexy, surprisingly up-front Marcoux with a succulent personality, tremendous opulence, and loads of blackberry liqueur aromas intermixed with melted licorice, smoke, and Asian spices. Drink this low acid, heady, plump, full-bodied, sexy Chateauneuf over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape—at least this bottle, tasted at the domaine—is past its best, showing little more on the nose than notes of soy sauce and roasted meat. It's medium to full-bodied, with a pleasantly silky texture, but Elvis has left the building. Drink up.