Clape's outstanding 2001 Cornas—while still at its apogee 20 years after the vintage—should nevertheless be consumed over the next several years, as notes of leather and dried leaves are impinging on the vibrant red fruit. Still full-bodied, almost creamy in feel, with a luxurious plushness in the mouth, it finishes long and harmonious. Just a terrific effort.

A blockbuster, and potentially the finest wine produced at this estate in four or five years, the inky-colored 2001 Cornas exhibits aromas of white flowers, melted licorice, sweet creme de cassis, blackberries, and blueberries. Profoundly concentrated and full-bodied, this jammy, thick Cornas possesses copious tannin, but it is largely obscured by the wealth of fruit and glycerin. It should turn out to be one of Clape’s greatest efforts. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2022. A brilliant Cornas! There is nothing wrong with a case of Clape! As I have been writing for several decades, Auguste Clape and his son, Pierre-Marie, represent the gold standard for classic Cornas. Readers lucky enough to have access to his importer’s portfolio (Kermit Lynch) should always check out his inexpensive Cotes du Rhone as well as his vin de pays called Le Vin des Amis. Both are noteworthy introductions to what can be found in his Cornas cuvees.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524