The 2006 Allende Blanco has a lovely bouquet with light honey, apricot and marmalade. The palate is rich and generous on the finish with a spicy entry and a beautiful pure waxy, Rhone-like finish. This is wonderful, a superb counterpart to the 2004. Drink now-2020. Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.

The 2006 Allende Blanco is composed of 70% old-vine Viura and 30% old-vine Malvasia. This local form of Malvasia has nothing in common with the more pedestrian Mediterranean variety. The wine was barrel-fermented in new French oak and aged for 13 months. During the first 6 months the wine was sur lie with batonnage twice weekly. Medium straw colored with green highlights, the wine has an excellent toasty nose, notes of vanilla and spice box, and green apple and pear aromas. Smooth-textured, ripe and lengthy, the wine is about as good as white Rioja gets. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767

Light yellow in color and slightly woody on the nose. This blend isn’t overly oaked but it is plump, rich and textured. The palate features melon, lychee and spice flavors, while the back end is full and dry, with an ending blast of green melon. Drink now. ——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 89