I was underwhelmed by the 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva, which revealed an unusually austere and tightly knit personality. It is well-constructed, with a dark ruby color, and a restrained but promising nose of sweet and sour cherries intermixed with currants and wood. The wine is medium-bodied and angular, with adequate acidity, and noticeably sharp tannin. Importer: Fine Wines International, Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5935

This 100% Sangiovese bottling serves up a textbook Chianti bouquet of black cherries, leather and earth. The same range, with good fruit focus, shows on the flavorful palate, with its dense, chewy texture. Fine, well-structured tannins indicate that this should improve over the next three years and age well. ——W.E.(5/1/2001)—— 89