Gorgeous, multi-dimensional Serralunga aromas burst from the glass of the 2004 Barolo Margheria. This vibrant, fresh Barolo exudes layers of dark fruit, tar, licorice, cinnamon, new leather and sweet toasted oak that flow onto the palate with stunning purity. The wine lost a little intensity with air, which is the only thing that keeps the score from going higher. This bottling saw 50% new oak, and it will require a few years to come together. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Readers looking for a first-rate Barolo producer whose pricing has remained very fair need look no further than the wines of Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. These are among my favorite wines to drink, especially in restaurants, where they don’t suffer from the larger markups that accompany some of the region’s better known bottlings. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Oaky nose, complex spices and ripe fruit. Easy, but oaky. Long, sweet fruit, good length. Warm, rich, charming, complex.