The 1991 Vosne-Romanee-Les Brulees, from some of Meo's oldest vines, exhibits a superb, saturated, deep purple color, a fragrant, stunningly gorgeous nose of black fruits, smoked meats, herbs, and toasty new oak. Deep, with a voluptuous texture, this full-bodied wine possesses soft tannin, stunning richness, a high glycerin level, and sweet tannins in the finish. Drink this lusty, full-throttle red burgundy over the next decade. This firm does a spectacular job with its two premier crus from Vosne-Romanee. While the Vosne-Romanee-Les Brulees (yields of only 15-20 hectoliters per hectare) and the Vosne-Romanee-Cros Parantoux (a Richebourg look-alike) may be premier crus in name and price, they are grand crus in quality. Both are must purchases in 1991 if you are a burgundy fanatic. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA. NOTES ON THE 1992s FROM BARREL: Meo's 1992s are among the most successful wines made in the Cote de Nuits in that vintage. They are even softer than the 1991s, with excellent concentration for the vintage.

Silky and flavorful; an earthy edge to the pretty blackberry and cherry flavors and shades of chocolate and cedar add extra dimensions. An elegant wine, with impressive length. Drinkable now. 137 cases made. -