The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées is brilliant, unfurling in the glass with an exquisite bouquet of sweet red berries, cherries, orange rind, smoked duck and exotic spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping wine framed by velvety tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a long and youthfully chalky finish. From a parcel planted in the 1930s, I often think that Aux Br?lées is Méo's finest wine; and while I'd give the Cros Parantoux the edge this year, it is a superb effort.