The 1996 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Brulees has a tertiary, mushroom-tinged bouquet with touches of violet petals and truffle developing in the glass. The palate is feminine, nicely focused with tart red cherries and just a hint of white pepper. Elegant right to the finish, though perhaps missing the persistency of other vintages, this is drinking well now, not tomorrow. Tasted November 2013.

Opulent, pure and clean, with a pretty vanilla, mocha, spice backdrop to the lovely wet earth, red- and blackberry character. Full-bodied, with a firm structure of ripe tannins. Elegant, crisp and long finish. Best after 2005. -PM