The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees comes from two parcels in the vineyard, one at the bottom of the slop towards Les Suchots and the other further up the slope, with many vines planted in the 1930s. It has a sophisticated bouquet that is beautifully defined and perhaps unlike the Echezeaux there is a sense of nonchalance and effortlessness here that is translated onto the palate. There is very fine density here with cashmere tannins, very well judged acidity and a harmonious, silky smooth iodine-tinged finished that you want to elope with. This is gorgeous and I can see this aging for many years. Domaine Meo-Camuzet boasts one of the most enviable portfolios in Vosne-Romanee, crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg. I have been following the wines for over a decade and visiting Jean-Nicolas Meo’s cellar just down the road from Bernard Gros. Together we tasted through both his negociant and domaine bottlings, partly from pre-prepared samples and others directly from barrel. He told me he had been surprised at the changes in pH post-malo-lactic fermentation, possibly due to a precipitation of potassium that had made the wines feel rounder. Certainly some of the cuvees did have a certain “sumptuousness” about them, but for the most part that tannins were present and correct, lending backbone to offset the occasionally intense fruit. Readers should note that I took a video of Jean-Nicolas discussing the vintage in his cellars, so please access this for further insight. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524