The black/purple-colored 1997 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees displays plum and sweet grape aromas, intermingled with smoky spices. This is a lovely wine with admirable complexity, expansiveness, and intensity. Medium to full-bodied, elegant, well-focused, and balanced, it is replete with cassis liqueur, blackberries, and Asian spices. Anticipated maturity: now-2007. Importers: Western US: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524; Eastern US: Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 011-33-3-80-22-58-25.

Moderate depth and concentration, with fine tannins and lively acidity to support the black cherry and earth notes. Drink now through 2002. -BS