The 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees has the polish, refinement, creaminess of texture and charm that the Parantoux lacked. Sweet black raspberry, nut paste, and butter-creme dominate in the nose and mouth, and the counterpoint of faintly caramelized fruit, toasted nuts, and grilled meat with diverse mineral expressions and juicy freshness of black raspberry and pomegranate is captivating. This long, polished wine should be given 8-10 years of development by which time a direct comparison with the presently more austere and high-strung Parantoux should be a rare treat. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.