A surprisingly approachable wine, the 2007 Taurasi Fatica Contadina wraps around the palate with expressive, radiant fruit. This is a fairly accessible style of Taurasi that offers considerable early appeal, even if some of the personality of the very best years is elusive. Hints of smoke, earthiness and tobacco flesh out on the finish. The Fatica Contadina is an excellent choice for readers who are new to Taurasi, which is usually a much more structured wine. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022.
I learned of Lucio Mastroberardino’s untimely passing just as we were about to go to press. Just 45 years old, the loss of Mastroberardino leaves a huge hole in the world of wine. The Mastroberardino family’s Terredora di Paolo turns out compelling wines pretty much across their entire range. That said, I have a weak spot for the entry-level Aglianico and the Taurasis. As a reminder to readers, Terredora di Paolo was created when the Mastroberardino family split up their historic estate in 1994. Walter Mastroberardino’s side of the family kept the vineyards but gave up the right to use their name in marketing.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200