The 2008 Etna Rosso N’Anticchia is flat-out dazzling. It boasts serious depth and density while never abandoning its roots. Sweet dried herbs, tobacco, incense and licorice are woven throughout a core of expressive dark red fruit. Deceptively medium in body but with plenty of tannic cloud, the N’Anticchia is all about balance. The 2008 is distinctly pungent and savory on the finish, to the point of being almost overwhelming in its exoticism. There is a lot to like here, but readers will need to approach the 2008 with an open mind and palate. All of the qualities that make Etna such a special place are on full display here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. These are the finest wines I have ever tasted from Pietro Caciorgna, a small estate on the Etna I have been following since it was established. Winemaker Paolo Caciorgna is best known for his work in Tuscany, but he has done a magnificent job with these two new releases. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880