This is far from my favorite red Burgundy vintage, but Guillemot’s 1996 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Serpentières is drinking very well indeed, wafting from the glass with notes of rich red-black fruits, baked strawberry, blood orange, forest floor and a touch of roasted game bird—with only a faint suggestion of the bloody, ferric note that many wines from this vintage have begun to show as they mature. On the palate, the wine is medium-full, with good concentration, length and texture, framed by a rich chassis of tannin and tangy acids.