The deep purple-colored 2000 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard (600 cases) reveals a sweet, high acid, angular personality without the generosity of its siblings. However, it is exceptionally long, with a concentrated mid-palate. The wine is unyielding and broodingly backward at present. It needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 12-15 years. It is a long-lived, potentially classic Pinot for those with patience. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Promising black plum, caramel, coffee and spice aromas open to high-toned black cherry fruit, cola, licorice and herbs. The feel is rich, slightly chalky, mouthfilling and velvety. Long and intense, the finish is packed with sweet and sour fruit. Editors’ Choice.——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 93