The 2001 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is a firmly structured, medium-bodied, clipped, austere effort, but it offers pleasant aromas as well as an attractive attack. However, the finish is angular and attenuated. It should flesh out with another 1-2 years of cellaring and keep for a decade. All things considered, 2001 and 2002 are the finest back-to-back vintages I have tasted from Williams-Selyem. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

From a very warm vintage, an enormously ripe, fruity wine. The dramatic aromas include smoky oak, dried autumn leaves and herbs, cherry, cranberry and dried porcini, with similar flavors. Fabulously interesting and complex, a rich, sweetly earthy wine whose tannins and weight promise even better things to come. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 92