The 2004 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard (510 cases) is a stunner, with a dense ruby/purple color and a rich nose of forest floor and red and black fruits mixed with some subtle oak and crushed rock. Fruit-forward, rich, medium to full-bodied, and impressively done, this wine should be at its finest in 5-15 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

The most notable feature of this wine, the thing that really distinguishes it from the other Pinots in Bob Cabral’s stable, is acidity. It just sings and zings. Meanwhile the fruity flavor from this hot vintage is enormous. Blackberries, cherries, mocha, molasses, the list goes on. Delicious now, this will improve for four years, and hold for another six.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 94