A modern-styled wine that works very well is the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee La Cote Ronde. Although made from the same blend as the Juline and aged in new oak, the marriage of wood and fruit works far better. The oak is there, but it does not play a leading role in this deep, rich, concentrated wine. Aromas of Provencal herbs, lavender, licorice, black currant and black cherry are followed by a dense, opulent, amazingly concentrated wine that should drink well for a decade. I was surprised that Paul Autard chose to make all three of his cuvees in 2008, but when you taste the wines out of bottle, you can see how successful this estate was. Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers

A modern-styled wine that works very well is the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee La Cote Ronde. Although made from the same blend as the Juline and aged in new oak, the marriage of wood and fruit works far better. The oak is there, but it does not play a leading role in this deep, rich, concentrated wine. Aromas of Provencal herbs, lavender, licorice, black currant and black cherry are followed by a dense, opulent, amazingly concentrated wine that should drink well for a decade. I was surprised that Paul Autard chose to make all three of his cuvees in 2008, but when you taste the wines out of bottle, you can see how successful this estate was.Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers