Perhaps it is just a function of vintage, but I don’t find the 2005 Aglianico del Vulture Riserva Gudarra meaningfully better or more complex than the straight 2008 Gudarra. An opulent, full-bodied wine, the 2005 Riserva Gudarra offers up an enticing melange of black fruit, grilled herbs, leather, licorice and tobacco, all in an intense, full-bodied style that is impossible to resist. Still vibrant for an eight year-old wine, the 2005 has at least another decade of very fine drinking ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. I rarely hear any buzz about Mario Bisceglia’s wines, which is suprising as these reds are loaded with real personality and class. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620