The 1999 Amarone della Valpolicella Pergole Vece is, logically enough, far more ambitious and important than the Valpolicella. Jammier and with important notes of chocolate and cinnamon on its warm and expansive nose, its rich, round palate shows much ripe fruit, velvety tactile sensations, a lengthy finish, and a freshness which keeps the sweetness in balance. Drink: 2004-2016. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Definitely smooth and woody, with plenty of toast, cedar and coffee along with black cherry. Shows a lot of the right stuff throughout, from the broad palate that sports sweet notes of caramel, coffee and root beer to the easy finish. Only a bit of hard tannin makes it firm; otherwise it registers as soft.——W.E.(11/1/2005)—— 89