For whatever reason, the full-bodied 2000 Vigna d'Alceo was roaring the day I tasted it. A single vineyard blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangiovese, it tastes like the Sammarco on steroids. It boasts a deep purple color in addition to scents of espresso, sweet melted licorice, black currant jam, and toasty oak. There is great intensity, superb purity, and a finish that lingers for nearly a minute. This mythical wine requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and will age effortlessly for two decades. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Big and brooding red, with lots of ripe red currants and hints of toasted oak. Full-bodied, with thick and velvety tannins, almost sweet. Long and jammy. Juicy red. Best after 2005. 1,350 cases made. -JS