The 2004 D’Alceo (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot) is even better. It is deceptively rounder and softer than the Sammarco in its expression of cassis, minerals, licorice and sweet, dark fruit. Despite the lushness of its fruit there is plenty of structure lurking underneath, and it will require significant patience before offering its finest drinking. It is one of the highlights of the vintage. 2014-2026. High-density vineyards, biodynamic farming and low yields are the hallmarks of the wines of Castello dei Rampolla, located in the prestigious Conca d’Oro in Panzano. Despite its elegant name Castello di Rampolla is a small, family-run property with a decidedly artisanal approach to working in both the vineyards and the cellar. The estate produces big, concentrated wines with imposing tannic structures that have proven to be extremely ageworthy. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Displays gorgeous, focused aromas of blackberry, currant and sandalwood. Full-bodied and tightly wound, with velvety tannins and a long finish of mineral, light fresh rosemary and currant. Solid as a rock. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best after 2011. 1,230 cases made. -JS

The beauty of this wine is in its elegant, restrained character. There are no loose ends or sharp spikes here. Instead, the 85-15 Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot blend is extremely compact and streamlined with beautiful extraction and pretty notes of chocolate, spice, tobacco and bold cherry. Imported by Vias Imports.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 94