The seductiveness continues in the powerful, heady, concentrated 2002 “G” Gago. Ripe, with rich fruit as well as body, glycerin, and density, it is a supple-textured, alluring effort to consume over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The initial aromas are of barnyard and medicine. But with time raspberry and blackberry emerge, and across the palate a wide blanket of tannins spreads out. Espresso, earth and char make for a masculine, tantalizing finish.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 86