The 2008 Alte d’Altesi (Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) flows from the glass with wild cherries, plums, grilled herbs, cassis and licorice. It shows more firmness in its tannins and more depth in its fruit than the Palazzo Altesi, but doesn’t quite have that wine’s sheer drinkability. Still, the Alte d’Altesi is impressive considering the year. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. A Leonardo Lo Casio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620