The 2010 Barbaresco Bernardot also delivers pretty hues of crushed granite and spice with smoky end-notes of tobacco and cedar that add a mysterious, seductive flair. This is a solid, well-made Barbaresco that captures the overall balance and intensity of the 2010 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Ceretto is a landmark estate and a world ambassador that has done much to teach Barolo appreciation around the world. Not only do they jealously safeguard their well-earned reputation for top-notch wines, but the various generations that have managed this historic winery understood sooner than most that the Langhe must also be developed to attract trouists. The various estates they own are adorned with massive projects of modern art and innovative buildings that make for irresistible touring destinations. As I write this report, I am looking out my window at the Ceretto glass “cube” that sits so regally on the crest of the Bricco Rocche cru above Castiglione Falletto. I have been taunted, nostalgically, each evening by the distant music and laughter emanating from that fascinating architectonic beacon of light and aspiration. Back to the wines: Ceretto is a brand of consistent high scores and accolades. But the 2009 vintage represents something of a lull for this venerated producer. I did not encounter the same clarity of voice or conviction of message that past vintages have delivered. My hope is that this is indeed a temporary lull. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Smoke, incense, tar and licorice meld into layers of dark red fruit in the 2009 Barbaresco Bernardot. I especially like the vibrancy and energy here, two qualities that are hard to find in 2009. There is a centeredness and intensity of fruit that is hugely appealing. At the same time the Bernardot has soft, refined tannins that contribute to its fabulous overall balance. A final burst of gorgeous, balsamic-infused fruit informs the dark, powerful finish. I continue to like what is happening at Ceretto. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. It’s great to see Ceretto – one of Piedmont’s iconic families – doing so well after a lackluster period in the 1990s and early 2000s. Ceretto’s top 2009 Barbareschi are easily among the very best of the year. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

The estate’s 2008 Barbaresco Bricco Asili is a pretty, understated wine laced with sweet berries, crushed rose petals and spices. Sweet silky tannins frame the expressive red fruit through to the detailed finish. The 2008 is a relatively small-scaled Bricco Asili, yet the wine shows lovely balance and classiness. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

The 2008 Barbaresco Bernardot emerges from the glass with freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, spices and licorice. Here, too, the fruit is fairly immediate, and while there is good underlying structure, I don’t see the Bernardot as a super long-term ager. Floral, spiced notes reappear on the well-articulated, nuanced finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661