Neither of the samples from this normally reliable estate performed up to expectations. The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape comes across as leathery and earthy, with only modest fruit and concentration. It's full-bodied, silky and with decent length, so perhaps it was just a mediocre sample.

The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape—a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, and smaller amounts of other permitted varieties—will spend a full two years in foudres prior to bottling. It's a full-bodied, rich and velvety wine, with layers of dark fruit resembling cola and black cherries and a touch of ground spices on the long finish. It should be a beauty.

Starting with a 2015 barrel sample, Versino’s 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape is a classic blend of 75% Grenache, 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and the balance Counoise and Cinsault, all of which was aged in foudre. It’s healthy ruby color is followed by earthy, slightly funky notes of peppery herbs, dark fruits and garrigue, which improves with time in the glass. Better on the palate, it has plenty of fruit, a full, layered mid-palate and ample tannic grip on the finish. This is a classic, old-school beauty that will need short-term cellaring and have 15 years of overall longevity.

If you’re looking for classic, old school styled Chateauneufs, you can’t go wrong with the wines from Jean-Paul Versino. Made from 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and the balance an assortment of other permitted varieties, the 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape should be another outstanding, Proven?al, classic wine from proprietor Jean-Paul Versino. Giving up beautiful notes of pepper, lavender, Proven?al herbs and leather, it’s medium-bodied, supple and has moderate tannic grip. It should be ready to go on release, yet have a decade of longevity.