The 2017 Gigondas starts off with lovely floral and tea-like scents accent aromas of red raspberries. It's full-bodied and seems supple at first, but then clamps down on the finish with firm grip and briny intensity. It's 76% Grenache and 24% Syrah, aged in foudre and tank.

A blend of 66% Grenache and 34% Syrah, aged in vat and foudre, the 2016 Gigondas is a notable effort. It's dark and muscular without being overdone, showing the suppleness to be approachable in its youth, yet with the potential to maybe even improve over the next year or two. Full-bodied, it delivers notes of cola, dried spices and ripe plums, all of which linger on the finish.

The richly textured 2015 Gigondas Tradition deserves a couple of years' cellaring before being enjoyed. This full-bodied blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah boasts gorgeous aromas of stone fruit and dried spices, a velvety texture and a long, complex finish.

The 2014 Gigondas Tradition is another first-rate effort that has classic Provencal aromatics (garrigue, peppery notes, kirsch and blackberries) medium-bodied richness and a supple, lengthy finish. Drink this terrific Gigondas over the coming 7-8 years.

Moving to the 2013s, the 2013 Gigondas Tradition is another classic, textbook Gigondas from this excellent estate. Made from 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, from 45-year-old vines, it was not destemmed and aged 12 months all in older foudre. Loaded with notions of garrigue, spice box, leather, dried pepper and currant/black raspberry-styled fruit, it’s medium-bodied, nicely balanced and will have 10-12 years of longevity. This cuvée is a safe bet in almost every vintage.