The 1998 Gigondas (70% Grenache and 30% Syrah) exhibits a dense purple color as well as a sweet, unevolved nose of minerals and black fruits. There is good underlying acidity, finesse, sweet cassis, and plenty of density and concentration. It will be long-lived, but it requires 3-5 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; Import!, Madison, WI; tel. (608) 255-8622, and Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA.