The 2006 San Martino is s pure expression of Sangiovese that sees 18 months of barrique. Tertiary aromas of cured meat, bresaola and Indian spice give the wine a dark and sophisticated feel. The fruit here is on the dried side with cassis, blackberry marmalade and cherry syrup. Oak-driven aromas of cinnamon and toasted nut definitely define the heavy, chewy finish. The wine is nearing its drinking peak, but still has a few more years to go. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2018. Importer: Ethica Wines; www.ethicawines.com

The 2005 San Martino is a selection of the estate’s finest Sangiovese. It is a pretty, delicate wine in this vintage. Sweet tobacco, cedar and spices add complexity to the dark fruit. The tannins are marked by excessive woodiness and dryness. With a little more care, this could be a substantially better wine. Ultimately the 2005 comes off as being a touch on the frail side. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Villa Cafaggio is located in the famous Conca d’Oro in Panzano, one of the very finest spots in all of Tuscany. The estate’s neighbors include Fontodi, La Massa and Castello dei Rampolla. It would be nice to see Villa Cafaggio make wines of a similar level. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5945

Villa Cafaggio’s 2004 San Martino is 100% Sangiovese from vineyards in Greve, in the heart of Chianti Classico, that is aged in 225-liter French oak barrels. Fragrant aromatics meld into an expressive palate of vibrant red cherries, licorice and tar. It remains a very primary wine that needs bottle age for its full range of aromas and flavors to emerge. Nevertheless, the finessed tannins are clearly those of a superb wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5935

Rich, plummy nose, chocolate and hint of cloves. Fairly rich, velvety. Spice, depth of flavour; will gain complexity with age.