The 2015 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is medium ruby-purple colored and scented of crushed black cherries, pomegranate and anise with hints of oolong tea, dried thyme and forest floor. Medium-bodied with wonderful vivacity, depth and harmony in the mouth, it has a solid frame of grainy tannins and a long, refreshing finish. 284 cases produced.

The 2013 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard has a dense ruby/plum color and an attractive nose of black cherries and currants as well as earth and forest. It is medium to full-bodied, concentrated, very youthful, fresh and rich. It should age nicely for a decade or more.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard displays a deep, black cherry fruitiness, a dark ruby color that is more saturated than some of its siblings’, moderate body, a similar texture as well as length, and reasonably good, well-integrated acidity. Although similar to the other Pinots, it is certainly well-made, and merits an excellent rating.

From the Sonoma Coast, the 2011 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard offers classic Pommard-like notes of red apple skins, earth and black cherries. There is always a masculinity to this cuvee, and the 2011 is earthy, firm, tannic, rustic and beefy in a good sense. This medium-bodied Pinot will benefit from 1-2 years of cellaring, and should keep for a decade. Alcohols in 2011 were not much lower than in some of the riper vintages, although they were definitely down. The 2011 Williams Selyem Chardonnays range between 13.9% (Heintz) to 14.5% (Olivet Lane). I tend to think this estate's Chardonnay program is underrated as it seems like their Pinot Noirs receive all the attention to the detriment of their Chardonnays, which can be brilliant. Tel. (707) 433-6425

The 2010 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is nicely layered from start to finish. Not surprisingly, the Hirsch is less overt than the various Russian River offerings, but makes up for that with its nuance and finesse. All things considered, this is a fairly simple, straightforward wine from one of California's very finest sites. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Tel. (707) 433-6425