The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru dominates the range this year, wafting from the glass with notes of waxy citrus zest, white flowers, nutmeg and wet stones, followed by a full-bodied, racy and electric palate, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, seamless mid-palate. Chiseled and concentrated, uniting texture and tension, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.

Leflaive's 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with scents of Anjou pear, orange oil, clear honey, white flowers and freshly baked bread, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, it's textural but taut, its satiny attack segueing into a deep, chiseled mid-palate, concluding with a long, electric finish. This is a brilliant Chevalier with a long life ahead of it.

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with sachets of orange oil, white flowers, crisp orchard fruit, blanched almonds, vanilla pod and buttered toast. Full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it's deep and multidimensional, with racy acids and a long, electric finish. This is one 2018 white Burgundy that is built for sustained bottle age.

The 2016 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, like the other of Leflaive’s grand crus, was affected by the frost. This takes time to open but eventually reveals some lovely yellow flower, flint and oyster shell aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is understated on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, but maybe the Batard-Montrachet demonstrated a little more drive and nervosité. There is something sedate about this Chevalier-Montrachet, with a lovely touch of spice on the aftertaste.