A serious, tight-fisted 1998 St.-Emilion, this dense ruby/purple-colored effort reveals impressive thickness as well as notes of minerals, flowers, cherries, and spice box. Well-delineated and elegant, with a terrific mid-palate and finish, it requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and could turn out to be outstanding if it fleshes out and the tannin becomes sweeter and better integrated. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.

Lots of chocolate, berry and cherry aromas. Full-bodied and very velvety, with lots of ripe tannins and a lovely milk chocolate and berry aftertaste. Well done. A serious wine from the less-than-serious part of St.-Emilion. Best after 2005. 3,165 cases made. -JS