The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is Pacenti’s best to date, quite dark in its ruby-garnet tonality and with ample sensations of cloves, vanilla, and sandalwood, though better integrated with the plum and raspberry fruit than in the past. The intense and powerful palate, concentrated, solid, and dense, is sweet and richly fruity and the depth and energy of the flavors indicate a significant life span ahead, a good fifteen years. Only a rise in the level of the oak on the finish keeps the score from going higher.
Siro Pacenti is the leader of the school of Montalcino producers who are staking their bets on sixty gallon barrels for aging their wines, a philosophy with which I am not entirely in agreement, as I find that the oak often flattens out the aromas and personality of the individual wines and vineyards. Pacenti is very much aware of my feelings on the issue, and we have simply decided to agree to disagree and remain on good terms.
Importer: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300