The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a huge, dense wine that explodes from the glass with tar, smoke, earthiness black cherries and minerals. The wine possesses dazzling concentration and tons of richness, as waves of fruit coat the palate in stunning style. This big, dramatic Brunello needs time in bottle, but it is nothing short of magnificent today. The balance, and the integration of the French oak in particular, is brilliant. For those who are curious to try a bottle now, the wine should be opened a few hours in advance as the tannins are imposing at this stage. This is a rare Brunello of superb pedigree and complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Giancarlo Pacenti farms 20 hectares of Sangiovese vineyards, the vast majority of which are Brunello-designated. Pacenti is one of the few producers who believes in bottling a single Brunello made from plots across various zones within Montalcino, which he believes leads to wines of greater complexity and balance. In 2004, Pacenti’s Brunello is composed roughly of 60% fruit from the southern part of Montalcino, while 40% of the fruit comes from vineyards planted in the northern part of the region, closer to the winery itself. Pacenti employs a Bordeaux-like model where only the best lots are bottled into the Brunello, which he considers his ‘Grand Vin,’ while the secondary lots are bottled as Rosso di Montalcino. That said, 2004 also brings with it a twist, as it is the first time Pacenti has produced a separate bottling from a small old-vine plot near the estate. These are wines of the very highest level, and I can’t recommend them highly enough. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Sweet cherry on the nose, with a hint of flowers and new oak. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. Powerful and rich for the vintage. A new wine from the master of Brunello. Best after 2011. 3,400 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add