The estate’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Manapetra shows the influence of smaller French oak barrels in its flavor profile, texture, and tannins. The wine comes across as candied and super-ripe, yet also possesses an element of freshness, typical of so many Brunellos in this vintage. Notes of tobacco and earthiness add further complexity, yet the wine’s overall balance is penalized by its hard, unpolished tannins. Bottle age is unlikely to help in a significant way. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. La Lecciaia, which is located in the central part of the Brunello zone, is a new property for me. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155.

This features fresh berry, raspberry and light mahogany aromas, with a light jammy character. Full and chewy, with plenty of new wood, but balanced and outstanding. Delicious now. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now. 1,000 cases made. -JS

Shows floral, plum and berry character on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied, with good fruit, but a little light. Austere tannins follow through. Good, but not exciting. Drink now. 500 cases made. -JS