The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Manapetra, the estate's top selection, is richer, deeper and bolder than the straight bottling. Initially the wilder side of Sangiovese comes through in this big, broad-shouldered Brunello. Game, smoke, licorice, tobacco and savory herbs linger on the potent, virile finish. With time in the glass, the wine becomes more refined, so it will be interesting to see what further time in bottle brings. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Importer: Monsieur Touton Selections Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-0786

Vigna Manapetra’s inky dark concentration is noticeable from afar and gives this Brunello a brawny and dark personality. The bouquet is broad and immense with integrated aromas of dark cherry, spice, leather and toasted nut. It’s almost too much of a good thing with smooth, evolved tannins and a touch of bitter fruit on the close. — (5/1/2013) —90